What Kind of Dog Should I Get?
Factors to consider
There is an enormous variety of dogs in shape, size,
personality, and abilities. Different breeds will have certain characteristics
for which they were bred. Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in breed
books for further information. You must consider several things before deciding
on a dog:
 How much time can you spend
with it?
Dogs are social creatures. They will not be happy left out
in the back yard alone. You must be committed to spending several hours a day
with it.
What
space can you provide it?
If you live in a small apartment, you must take this into
consideration: many dogs will not do well unless you expend a good deal of
effort in meeting their needs. Dogs can be pretty adaptable so long as *you*
help them out. Don't be fooled by size into thinking a dog will be OK in a small
apartment -- Jack Russell Terriers require a LOT of exercise. Conversely, many
Mastiffs are content to flop on the floor and do nothing at all while you are
gone.
How
much money can you set aside for it?
Even if you get a dog from the shelter or otherwise
inexpensively, you will have to buy food, pay for veterinary checkups,
vaccinations and routine medical care, and purchase other equipment over the
lifetime of the dog. Not to mention replacing anything the dog may damage or
destroy, or putting money out for medical emergencies. Do you have the financial
resources for this?
How
much exercise can you give it?
If your time is limited, you should look for smaller or
less active dogs that can obtain enough exercise in your home or from short
walks. Note that not all small dogs are less active, or larger dogs more active;
research your breeds!
How
much training can you do?
Regardless of the dog you get, training will make your dog
much more compatible with you and what you want to do. A trained dog can go to
more places with you without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your
life.
How
much grooming can you do?
How much hair are you prepared to have in your home? You
should give serious consideration to these factors: some dogs shed little and
require no grooming (clipping, stripping, etc); others shed little but require
more grooming; others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both
shed and require grooming. Do note that just about all dogs will require some
nail clipping regardless of conditions. If you get a dog that requires regular
grooming, are you prepared to pay for its grooming or learn to do it yourself
and to do either regularly?
Which
sex do you want, male or female?
There are pros and cons to either sex, all of which are
generalities and may or may not apply to a specific dog. By all means, if you
have a preference, get the sex you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't
matter -- look for the dog you hit it off with.
What
characteristics do you want in a dog?
Different breeds have been bred with specific purposes in
mind. Dogs bred for scent, for racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these
traits. Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy you.
Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below) and talking to
breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of characteristics. This also
may be a reason to choose a purebred: characteristics in purebreds appear more
reliably because of their consistent breeding. Do recognize, however, that dogs
show individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed. Breeds are
only a general indicator of what to expect. Some questions to ask yourself:
What
sort of exercise do I want to do with the dog?
Walking? Jogging? Hiking? Do I want a dog that is bouncy
and ready to go, or more relaxed?
Am
I prepared for a dog with some protective tendencies?
How about a dog with possible dog-aggression (because of
its background or breed)?
Do
I want an indiscriminately friendly dog or one that is more reserved?
Do
I want a dog that must be near me whenever possible or do I prefer a more
independent nature?
Will
I want a dog that readily accepts other animals (e.g., cats, rabbits, etc.)?
Am
I interested in: obedience, agility, hunting, herding, coursing, showing, etc.
with this dog?
Information provided courtesy of:
Getting A Dog FAQ by Cindy Tittle Moore
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Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dogs
If you are interested in a purebred dog, you should pick up
a book on dog breeds (most libraries will have a good selection) and do some
research, with the above questions in mind. There are some breed-specific FAQ's
available. Finally, you should SERIOUSLY consider attending a dog show where not
only can you potentially contact breeders, but you can see ADULT specimens of
the breed you are considering. It's very important to remember that cute little
puppies remain cute little puppies only for a matter of weeks. There is a long
period of ungainly and rebellious adolescence finally followed by mellow
adulthood.
If the dog's breed is not important to you, you should
still consider the above list when choosing the dog. You do face a few more
unknowns since a mixed-breed puppy (e.g., a "mutt") may or may not clearly
exhibit what its adult characteristics will be.
Many people have strong feelings about purebred dogs,
especially the characteristics of the breed. Other people feel that the
"stereotypes" are overrated. Jon Pastor made some nice comments about the
usefulness and caveats of typical breed behaviors:
Are behaviors commonly ascribed to specific breeds based in fact or are
they just stereotypes?
They are really a bit of both: they are informal
statistical descriptions (i.e., stereotypes), and to the extent that they
reflect reality they're also facts. "Stereotypes" -- or, more simply, "types" --
can be, but are not necessarily, evil: it depends on how you use them.
Typical means "characteristic of the type," and is a
statistical abstraction; it does not have any normative implications -- i.e.,
there is no claim that all (or even most) examples of the type in question have
the characteristics that are stated to be typical. One of the ways in which
people make sense of the world is by comparing entities they encounter with the
types they've stored in their memories in order to identify them; it's a
remarkably effective way of compiling knowledge about an infinitely complex
environment so that it can be accessed quickly enough to (in the extreme) save
one's life.
Thus "typical" is a largely ad-hoc, somewhat
personal label, until it is agreed-upon by some number of people who share the
same notion of what common characteristics identify the "typical" object of a
particular kind. If we could eliminate the biases that have been identified in
such behavior (e.g., if the last 20 dogs you've seen have been Borzois, you will
most likely over-estimate the true number of Borzois in the dog population), we
would find that "typical" approximated some statistical tendency in the
population we're addressing, typically the mean (average) or mode (most common).
Thus, we are *NOT* saying that
- all dogs of a particular breed have all -- or, in fact,
*any* --of the "typical" levels of each characteristic
- there is necessarily any real dog that has all of the
"typical" levels of each characteristic
- it is impossible for a dog of breed 2 to have some --
or, in fact, *all* -- of the typical characteristics of breed 1
This is not a True/False situation, it's an
infinitely-graded situation. If you get a dog of that particular breed, the
modal (typical) value is simply the one you'd be most *likely* to get.
A big caveat: breed traits are not computed scientifically,
and are thus not quite subject to the laws of Statistics. However, they do
reflect the cumulative wisdom of hundreds (thousands?) of years of human
observation and active breeding of dogs.
The bottom line is that if you get an Newfoundland, it is
highly likely that it will be a good lifesaving dog; it is possible, although
less likely, that it will be a *great* lifesaving dog; and it is also possible,
although also less likely, that it will show no aptitude for lifesaving. Similar
statements hold for "typical" traits of sight hounds, Rotts, Poodles, GSDs,
Goldens, Irish Setters, and any other breed you can think of.
If you use this "stereotype" information to inform your
choice of a dog, and make some effort to determine how "typical" a given dog is
likely to be of its breed (by looking at parents and siblings, by observing the
dog, by asking the owner, etc., etc.), it's innocuous and can be quite useful.
If you use it blindly to make blanket judgments of breeds, use of stereotypes
can be foolish. In the extreme, if you don't understand the meaning of the
characteristics, or have mis-identified or mis-measured them, use of stereotypes
can be positively evil, such as when "all Pitbulls" are identified as dangerous
and banned.
The only conclusion that this discussion licenses with
respect to the purebred versus mixed-breed question is that prediction is easier
with a purebred because the number of purebreds is (relatively) small and
(relatively) fixed, while the number of possible mixes is essentially infinite;
as a result, there has been more observation of individual "pure" breeds, and
there is consequently more data to support generalizations about breed
characteristics. This is not, by any means, to say that purebreds are
necessarily better or worse; they're just more predictable.
So if you want a dog with a particular set of
characteristics, you will be more likely to get such a dog if you find a breed
that typically has those characteristics and choose a dog of that breed
*intelligently* than if you choose a dog of mixed breeds (unless, of course,
you're talking about an older dog whose behavioral characteristics are already
obvious and therefore observable). This is a statement about probability, not
about quality, and anyone who attempts to apply an absolute value-scheme to it
is making unwarranted and unjustifiable extrapolations.
Statistics is a powerful weapon. As with any other such
weapon, use it ignorantly or indiscriminately at your peril...
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Listed here some good references on dog breeds; others
appear in the Publications FAQ. In addition, there are many that are specific to
one breed. Space prohibits listing any of these type of dog books here, but you
should look up breed specific books on the breeds you are especially interested
in for even more detailed information. The breed specific FAQ's mentioned in the
introduction will contain recommended pointers.
One word of warning on breed specific books. In general,
avoid the TFH "KW" series readily available in most pet stores. These are small
books, about 150 pages. Most of them recommend pet stores as a source for
puppies, blithely talk of the "joys" of breeding, and contain very little actual
breed-specific information. Instead there is a large amount of general
information repeated from book to book, and what amounts to advertising for a
number of brands of dog products. Leaf through the book carefully before
deciding (or not) to buy it.
De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson. The Mini-Atlas
of Dog Breeds. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753 1990.
This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around
the world. Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos. Includes a
short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a breed, and a
short description of the categories it chose to group dogs in (slightly
different from, eg. AKC groupings).
Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds. The Complete
Dog Book: official publication of the American Kennel Club. Eighteenth
edition. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York. 1992.
This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each
of which covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature. Newly admitted
breeds, such as the Shar-Pei, have been added to this edition.
Sylvester, Patricia, ed. The Reader's Digest Illustrated
Book of Dogs. 2nd edition. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY. 1994.
Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the
album, which cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative
sections are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
photographs as well.
Tortora, Daniel F. The Right Dog For You. Fireside,
Simon & Schuster Trade Books. 1983.
Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of
questionnaires to alert you to the potential significance of various features
of breed behavior and physical characteristics. One of the few that lists
potential problems of each breed rather than giving a glowingly positive one
for each.
Wilcox, Bonnie and Chris Walkowicz. Atlas of Dog Breeds.
TFH Publications. 5th ed, 1994.
Over 900 pages long in large format. The authors are top
notch writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
resource of the world's dog breeds. The book is profusely illustrated with
excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page article. This book makes a good
effort to show every color and every coat type of each breed in the various
photos. Expensive. The latest edition is out in two volumes. Network for
Animales and Females, 18707 Curry Powder Lane, Germantown, MD 20874,
301-428-3675. 1993.
The AKC Breed Identification Series is a set of
seven short video cassettes that give a brief overview of each breed of dog
recognized by the AKC. The tapes are categorized by AKC breed groupings
(sporting, working...) The segments for each breed last less than five minutes
each. The information is often erratically presented and incomplete. The tape
set is probably unavailable at video rental stores. Since the set of seven tapes
is probably quite expensive, the public library would be the best way to examine
these tapes.
Some breed clubs have much better videos describing their
breeds. They are expensive enough that it's probably not worth getting them if
you're still "browsing," but if you have a dog of that breed, they're often
quite nice to get ahold of.
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There are responsibilities that go along with being a good
dog owner. A dog will live from 10 to 20 years, depending on its breed, size and
general health. This is a long term commitment, and you must be ready to provide
the dog with a home for that duration. You must make provisions for it when you
go on vacation. It needs attention, love, and respect from you: feeding and
watering it are not enough. Consider it part of your family: this is no joke as
that is exactly what the dog thinks YOU are: its pack, its family.
 You
are responsible for its health.
An essential part of owning a dog is making sure that it gets
good medical care. Check the vets in your area and pick out one before you even
get your dog. Take your dog in to the vet immediately after acquiring it and
take it in regularly thereafter. You will have expenses for yearly shots and, in
many areas, heart-worm preventive. Puppies and dogs routinely die without
adequate veterinary care.
If
you get your dog for protection, you are obligated to make sure that it is safe,
reliable, and trustworthy around people.
Never chain it up in the back yard, or encourage it to snarl and bite other
people. Never try to make a dog "vicious." Such irresponsible treatment results
in tragic stories of children and adults being mauled or even killed, the dog
being put down, and various dog bans being enacted. A dog can protect you just
fine by barking at suspicious noises and allowing you to investigate. It does
not have to be vicious. A good protection dog is always well trained, properly
socialized, and has a relationship with its owner that encourages it to be
protective. Higher levels of protection (such as attack dogs) require
considerable training and experienced handling and are most definitely not for
everyone.
You
are responsible for your dog's reproduction.
You must either get it neutered, or make provisions for
keeping your bitch away from dogs when in heat. If your male is intact, you must
keep him under control when he smells a bitch in heat. If you breed, you are
responsible for making sure that your dog or bitch is suitable for breeding
(i.e., good health, good temperament, good specimen of the breed, and free of
genetic defects), and making sure that all resulting puppies are placed in good
homes. The millions of dogs that must be put down annually in the US are the
result of owner irresponsibility about their pet's reproduction.
You
are responsible for your pet's behavior.
This means keeping your dog under control. Do not let it roam; do
not let it become a nuisance to others in your neighborhood. Keep it on a leash
when walking so that it does not run up to other people or dogs and bother them.
Clean up after it or curb it (make it go in the gutter) when it eliminates,
*especially* in public areas. Many parks, beaches, and lakes are closed to dogs
because of irresponsible owners in this regard.
You
are still responsible for the dog when you "get one for your kid."
Unless your child is old enough, at least 13 (and highly
variable at that), she or he will not have the sufficient maturity to take
responsibility for the dog. A dog can be a good way to teach children about
responsibility, but the dog is still *your* main responsibility. Dogs acquired
for this reason often wind up in the shelters when the parents find out that
they are the dog's primary caretaker.
You
are responsible for becoming more knowledgeable about dogs.
Find some good books and read up. Enroll in puppy and dog classes
where you can learn much from the instructor; attend them even before you get a
dog or puppy for first hand knowledge of what you can expect. Many dogs are in
animal shelters with a note that says "couldn't be housebroken" or "couldn't be
trained."
You
are responsible for being prepared for the new dog.
Never get one as a "surprise gift." All members of your
family must agree on having a dog. Have food, water and food dishes, bedding,
collars and leashes, chew toys, and a veterinarian lined up before you pick up
your dog. Many "Christmas puppies" are found in the shelters by New Year's Day.
Some books to try:
Milani, Myrna M., DVM. The Weekend Dog. Signet
(Penguin Books USA, Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people
with dogs. It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of practical
solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate training,
housetraining, and so forth.
Miller, Harry. The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog
Care. Bantam Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8
(paperback).
This small book provides a surprising amount of useful
information. A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog. You can use this to
decide how much you do know and where you need to brush up on what you don't.
Besides sections on how to select the right dog, it covers basic puppy needs
(housetraining, feeding, illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a
complete list of AKC breeds.
Monks of New Skete, The. How To Be Your Dog's Best
Friend. Little, Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and
trains German Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience,
they offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive bibliography.
The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to communicate with it or to
solve problem behavior. An excellent, well written classic, although becoming
a little dated.
Spadafori, Gina. Dogs for Dummies, IDE Press, 1996.
This book is my current favorite and most up-to-date
volume on dog ownership, especially for the novice owner, although there is
something for everyone here. The author writes a newspaper column and has been
answering basic questions every day for years, the same type that show up in
rec.pets.dogs. This experience and helpful advice comes through in every page
on this book.
Taylor, David. You and Your Dog. Alfred A. Knopf,
New York (1991). ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
This useful book is an overall guide to the health and
care of dogs. It includes a basic listing of dog breeds (AKC). This is a good
general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved in owning
and caring for a dog.
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There are really only three places that you should get a
dog from: an animal shelter, a responsible breeder, or a rescue
organization. Typically, dogs from shelters or rescue organizations are
neutered, or you will be required to neuter them as condition of purchase.
Animal shelters
The animal shelter is a good place to pick up a dog and
save it from death in the bargain. Look for a clean, healthy dog, keeping in
mind any constraints you may have. Look for signs of friendliness and
liveliness. Does it approach you in a friendly manner? Talk with the people
caring for the animals for any information on a particular animal they can give
you.
The best thing to do is to go the animal shelter every
weekend and spend time with the dogs. Try to put their plight out of your mind
for the moment--it would be nice to save them all, but you can't. Instead, you
should get to know the dogs on an individual basis.
Read the tags on each cage and see whether the dog was a
stray, or whether its owner turned it in for some reason. There are some
beautiful adult dogs in the pound that have been given up reluctantly by ill or
elderly, or even deceased, owners. Don't overlook these!
Ask to see the dog in the holding area most shelters have.
You'll be able to check for signs of hostility, see if the dog knows anything,
and in general how it reacts to you. Expect some fear and nervousness! A few
doggy treats may help calm it. If things seem to be going well, ask if you can
take it on a walk, even just around the compound. If you are curious to know its
reaction to cats, take it by the cat compound.
Finally, don't be afraid to say "not this dog," and walk
away. It is hard, hard, hard to walk away from a sweet dog, but you are looking
for a companion for life, so you will have to be honest with yourself about what
you want. There are heartbreaking stories from people who made an impulsive
decision in the pound and lived to regret it. Bring along a friend who can help
you look at the dog more objectively.
Breeders
If you plan to show your dog, or desire a healthy
pet-quality purebred, find a responsible breeder. Don't use newspaper
advertisements. Attend dog shows or performance events instead and talk to the
owners and breeders there. Try contacting the local breed club for the breed you
are interested in. It's best to get to know several breeders before they
actually have litters you would like to get puppies from. This gives you a
chance to learn more about the breed, learn more about the philosophies and
intents of the breeders you know, and learn more about the prospective parents
of your pup. The more information you have, the better off you will be.
Remember, though no breeder is *automatically* responsible
or ethical just from the source you were referred from. You must determine
whether a particular breeder is suitable for your needs, and the more time and
research you put into this, the better your results will be.
After you compile a list of potential breeders to contact,
screen them through the phone first. Here's a list of questions to ask (in no
particular order).
- Can you see the dam and if possible the sire?
- Where are the pups being raised, in a family setting or
in a kennel?
- What health problems occur in the breed?
- Have these problems been checked in the parents? As
appropriate: OFA certification, CERF certification, blood tests, etc.
- Request a copy of the sire and dam's lineage/pedigree.
- Titles on sire and dam.
- Info on puppies the sire and dam (together or with other
mates) have previously produced? (That is, are either of the parents
"proven"?)
- Has the puppy been crated trained, paper trained, etc.
- What breed clubs do you belong to? Do you have
references?
- How many puppies were in the litter?
- Any difficulties during delivery?
- How often is the bitch bred?
- What guarantees do you offer on your animals?
- What is in your sales contract?
- Do you offer a spay/neuter contract for pet quality
puppies?
- Have they been to the vet yet? Wormed? Shots? Are
the dogs bred for the ring, field, or for general pet purposes?
- How many breedings have you done to date? How long have
you been breeding? Names and phone numbers of several customers, and the vet
you use.
- How many different breeds have you bred? How many breeds
are you breeding now?
- If for some reason I cannot keep the dog, will you take
it back, no matter how old it is?
- If I want a bitch puppy so I can breed her as an adult,
what kind of, if any, restrictions will you include in the sales contract?
- Do you have a litter available? If not, when are you
planning one? (If a litter isn't presently available, ask if/when they are
next planning to show their dogs in your area. If you can go, this is a golden
opportunity to observe the structure and temperament of the dogs they breed.)
When you meet with breeders, look for people that seem more
concerned with the welfare of their dogs than the amount of money they're
making. Look for ones raising the puppies "underfoot" and around people. If the
breeder is using kennels, check for cleanliness, happy dogs, no overcrowding,
shelter from the elements, plenty of fresh water.
Check and see how many different breeds the breeder is
breeding -- good breeders limit themselves to one or two (usually related)
breeds because of the time, expense, and energy involved in producing excellent
specimens of a particular breed. Otherwise, the breeder may be operating what is
essentially a puppy mill (check this against how often the dam is being bred &
what condition she is in).
A responsible breeder should have some history of breeding
animals. They may be breeding for show or field work or just plain good pets.
They should be able to tell you about some of their previous puppies. They
should be able and willing to discuss the health and well being of the parents
of your puppy including: eye conditions, hip dysplasia, etc.
In general, be suspicious of puppies from anyone who has not
had the parents at minimum x-rayed for hip dysplasia and had the eyes checked by
a veterinarian, or for other problems associated with the breed. Not all breeds
have the same problems, but breeders should know what they are and be able to
tell you which ones they've tested for. And if you've done your homework
beforehand, you'll know if they're checking the right things.
Here are some red flags that should make you wary. The
presence of any one of them is not necessarily an indication that something IS
wrong, but you should definitely check further if you see any of these:
- Breeding more than one breed--A few breeders branch out
into a second breed, but the truth is that there is so much work involved in
breeding right that one breed is more than enough for most people. If they are
breeding more than two breeds, something may be very wrong.
- The sire and dam are both on the same premises--Now,
sometimes the breeder owns the dog they decided would be best for their bitch,
it does happen. If you see this, ask who else the bitch has been bred to and
generally try to find out if the breeder always uses her own stud dogs (a BIG
red flag), or uses a variety of dogs depending on the bitch (the flashing red
lights can turn off now)
- The bitch was bred her previous season as well as this
one--This is called back to back breeding and is extremely rare among
responsible breeders and all too common among unethical breeders. Unless the
previous litter resulted in no live puppies (or perhaps only one or two pups)
or there was a compelling reason to do this THIS TIME (the sire is on his last
legs, etc), this should be reason enough to leave.
Expect to be shown the paperwork on the parents: OFA hip
certificates are printed on heavy stock, white paper with a blue background;
elbow certificates are similar but with a green background (and no grade is
given). ACVO (eye examination) paperwork is on light tissue apper and will be a
carbon copy; if they have the CERF paperwork, that will be a narrow computer
printout with some blue lettering (and they will no longer have the original
ACVO paper but a copy as the original is turned in when requesting a CERF
number). Take note of the numbers assigned and CALL OFA and/or CERF and verify
them. The sire's paperwork will probably all be photocopied unless the breeder
owns the sire as well.
Here are additional things you can do to verify the
information the breeder gives you.
- Call the AKC and confirm claimed points: 1-900-903-4252. Be
prepared to enter the dog's AKC number when prompted. It costs 99 cents a
minute, but most queries take just two minutes or so.
- Use OFA's web site to confirm the certificate. Go to
http://www.offa.org and enter the dog's OFA
number or AKC number to verify.
- Use CERF's web site to confirm the CERF's being current. Go
to
http://www.vet.purdue.edu:80/~yshen/cerf.html to verify.
Yes, it's possible to fake all of these, but generally
folks who are lying will trip up somewhere when you double check on the numbers
and such. This is where checking references come in...you want to be satisfied
of the breeder's overall integrity, etc.
Get references of previous clients and call them up and ask
them how they liked their dog. Don't overlook this step, you can learn a lot
about what the puppies are like and how well they did this way. A responsible
breeder should have no problem supplying you with such references.
You should be able to see the mother of your puppy; her
temperament will give you a good idea of your puppy's adult temperament.
Obedience and temperament titles can indicate good temperament. Being unable to
see the sire is not uncommon, picky breeders will often ship their bitch
cross-country to a good prospect. If you've done your homework, though, chances
are you are already familiar with the sire and know that he has the qualities
you want. If both parents are owned by the breeder (and those are the only two),
chances are this breeder is not responsible: what are the chances you'd own the
perfect stud dog for your bitch? On the other hand, many long term breeders have
developed distinct lines and will have breed two dogs of their breeding (whether
they own both or not) for the puppies. So consider the big picture as well.
Check for some basic health problems: a litter that was
larger than the breed average may mean that the puppies are smaller and not as
healthy, a small litter might indicate trouble during pregnancy. A litter of
size one or two means that the puppies are getting little or no socialization
with littermates, regardless of health. The puppies should look vigorous and be
strongly sucking, beware of listless (though sleeping is OK) puppies and
indifferent suckling. Try to see the puppies when they're likely to be active.
"Runts" are puppies that are significantly smaller than
their littermates. If they are otherwise healthy (actively rooting and sucking,
playing with littermates, etc.), then they are probably simply younger than
their siblings. When dogs are bred, they mate over a period of several days, and
it's possible for some of the puppies to be conceived on the first mating and
others on subsequent matings. Over a period of four days, this can make the
youngest puppy significantly smaller. These puppies frequently catch up several
months later, and it's not uncommon for such a pup to turn out to be the largest
one in the litter! Puppies that are runts due to health problems should be
avoided. A responsible breeder will let you know which kind of runt the pup is.
Puppies should be at minimum de-wormed by eight weeks of
age. The first set of puppy shots is desirable as well. Beware of breeders who
have not had a vet see the puppies (or mother) at all.
Many responsible breeders only guarantee the general health
of a pup for a limited time (e.g. 48 hours). This is not a rip-off. The breeder
has no control over the pup once the new owner takes it. Reputable breeders will
stand by that guarantee *if* the new owner takes the pup to a vet who finds
something wrong (e.g. a communicable disease) within that period but the breeder
can hardly be held responsible for a disease contracted after the pup is in its
new home. Thus, such an early trip to the vet is for the protection of all
concerned.
Guaranteeing against genetic defects is common: such a
guarantee generally means a refund or replacement in the case of a defect
occurring; it does NOT mean that the puppy will "never" develop a genetic
defect. Be wary of breeders that claim their puppies can never develop some
defect that does occur in the breed.
The breeder should also guarantee to take the puppy back if
you are unable to keep it rather than having it go to the pound. The breeder
should also be concerned about your living conditions and what you plan to use
the dog for before they allow their puppy to go live with you. Many breeders
will want to know what you plan to do about reproduction. Many will require that
a pet quality puppy be neutered, and withhold registry papers until receipt of
proof of neutering (thus making any puppies from that dog unregisterable).
If guarantees or other contracts (such as spay/neuter) are
involved, get it all down in writing. A responsible breeder will not be offended
by such a step. If something goes wrong, you have no legal recourse if there is
nothing in writing, verbal contract laws in some states to the contrary.
If you're planning on a puppy for show (conformation or
hunting or whatever else your breed does) and possible breeding, look for a
breeder that is very picky about selling such puppies. If this is your first
such puppy, expect an offer of co-ownership if they think you're serious. At the
minimum, the breeder should be discussing how they'll remain involved with the
puppy. This is a valuable resource, by the way, the breeder will be able to
explain what the puppy's pedigree means, what other dogs it should be bred to,
how to show it, and so on. Moreover, if you are planning something like this,
definitely take your time and get to know several breeders doing the same things
you are interested in. This will give you contacts, information, and a break
when a good litter comes along and the breeders know you or you are vouched for
by another breeder. It can be hard to "break into" showing and breeding, but a
little patience on your part will give better results.
Good breeders often have a waiting list of potential puppy
buyers and often will not breed until they know they can place all the resulting
puppies. If you find a breeder you like, do not be surprised if you are placed
on a waiting list for a puppy. The wait will be worth it!
Approach getting a puppy as if you were adopting a child.
Expect a lot of questions and ASK a lot of questions! A responsible breeder is
also looking for a responsible owner.
Selecting the puppy
Many breeders let you see and play with the entire litter
at once. One puppy may come right up to you and investigate. Of course, it's
cute -- all puppies are. You may think this puppy has "chosen" you. Instead,
it's likely to be the most dominant puppy in the litter. Dominant puppies will
check new things out before the rest of the litter does. Your "chosen" puppy may
not be right for you if you're a novice at dog ownership or obedience training.
A better way to select a pup from a litter is to do a
little temperament testing and pick the dog with the temperament that best meets
you and your family's needs. The Monks of New Skete's book, "The Art of Raising
a Puppy," discusses the Puppy Aptitude Test developed by Joachim and Wendy
Volhard. They indicate the degree of social compatibility and how readily a pup
will accept human leadership.
If the breeder picks a puppy out for you, that's also
normal: responsible ones will have evaluated their puppies and match one to you
based on what you've indicated you want.
Rescue organizations
Another excellent source for a purebred dog is from a
rescue organizations run by various clubs across the country. If it is a breed
rescue, dogs of that breed are rescued from shelters or private homes as needed,
fostered while a placement is found, and then placed. The adoption fee usually
is less than the cost of a purebred from other sources.
For addresses of rescue services for various breeds, call
the American Kennel Club library, 212-696-8348, or check the breed-specific FAQ,
if one exists for your breed. You can also check the BREED book (listed above);
it contains over 1500 sources for rescue assistance for 72 breeds throughout the
US. Breed clubs often run a rescue program; try contacting the local breed club
for the breed you're interested in.
There also exist all-breed and mixed-breed rescue groups;
this is another source besides the shelter to obtain a dog.
You should try to spend some time with each dog you
consider adopting, as recommended and described for shelter dogs. Talk to the
people who are fostering the prospective dog for a better idea of the particular
dog's temperament. Ask questions like you would with a breeder; expect a good
outfit to screen you as well. Expect them to ask for a donation and require that
the animal is neutered, if it isn't already.
Further breed-rescue resources: The newsgroup
rec.pets.dogs.rescue; the mailing list dog-rescue (see the Email List FAQ); the
November 1994 issue of the AKC Gazette.
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Backyard breeders
"Backyard breeder" is a nebulous, ill-defined term often
applied to people who have unplanned litters or who breed for profit as sort of
a cottage industry. A better term is probably "Ignorant" or "Careless" breeders.
By whatever name, they are not a good source. If you must try these, check the
health of the puppies carefully. As with breeders, look for people more
concerned with the welfare of the puppies -- people out for a fast buck will not
likely have seen to the health of the puppies. If you are looking for a
purebred, forget these breeders and find a responsible breeder instead. It will
save you time and money and heartache. If you don't care about having a
purebred, you will do better at the animal shelter.
It is not impossible that you will find a conscientious
breeder through the newspaper. Just check them carefully when you go and visit
them, like you would any other breeder.
Don't make the mistake of thinking that because you "only"
want a nice pet, there is no reason for you to look for a high quality breeder.
On the contrary, no litter is 100% up to the criteria the breeder is looking
for...and the pup that doesn't quite meet the expectations of the breeder in
ability or looks will make an excellent pet as he will otherwise be healthy and
good tempered...just what you want in your new companion.
Irresponsible Breeders
Any breeder that has in mind one single goal and breeds
only for that must be considered irresponsible. Many "backyard" breeders (goal =
money) fall into this category, but so do "professional" breeders such as:
- those who breed ONLY for the perfect show dog
- those who breed ONLY for top performance
The key word is ONLY. Responsible breeders seek a balanced
dog: they will breed for:
- proper conformation (good structure is key for
comfortable and free movement)
- good level of appropriate ability (if a hunting breed,
dogs in the pedigree have hunting titles or have been used for hunting; same
for herding, coursing, etc.)
- good overall temperament
- good health
Irresponsible breeders with a single goal in their view
will frequently sacrifice many of these points; a breeder seeking top
performance often lets temperament or health slide, just so long as the dog can
perform; a breeder seeking top show dogs may let the dog's abilities and health
slide. Someone out to make a fast buck may niot have checked any of these
criteria in their dogs! Examine your breeders carefully and go with the ones
that match your overall philosophy and goals.
Pet Stores
Don't buy pet store animals. These are often obtained from
irresponsible sources such as "puppy mills" (where animals are bred (and bred
and bred) only for profit). By buying from the store, you are supporting these
mills and adding to the pet population problem. In addition, you are obtaining
an animal of dubious health and any money you might save will likely go directly
into vet costs as its health deteriorates and you may even have to put it down.
If it is purebred and has papers, chances are very good that the papers have
been forged in some way and even that the puppy is not really purebred. Even if
the papers are legitimate, the pedigrees are often extremely poor. Many
behavioral problems appear in these puppies as they are carelessly bred,
separated too early from their mother and littermates, improperly handled,
un-socialized with either humans or dogs, and forced to live in their own feces.
A graphic article in LIFE Magazine (Sept. 1992) illustrates the kinds of
problems with puppy mills.
Many pet stores have been instructing their employees to
tell prospective clients that all the animals in the store are from local
breeders. In many cases, this is simply not true. Other stores will have
pictures and commentaries on their walls to inform you how clean and sanitary
THEIR puppy mills are -- but "clean and sanitary" still does not obviate the
problems with socialization and bloodlines. Don't be fooled! And you may not
even want to patronize the stores for pet supplies as this will indirectly
support the mills, too.
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Before you even bring your new dog home, take it to the vet
you have already selected. Annual shots and examinations are a must for keeping
your dog healthy. If you cannot afford veterinary care for a dog, don't get one.
Preventive and consistent care is less expensive in the long run.
Choosing a vet
Choose a vet who you are comfortable with and who will
answer your questions. Check out the office: do animals seem just frightened or
are they also out of control? Is it bedlam, or reasonable for the number of
different animals there? Do you have local recommendations from friends? Does
the vet specialize in small animals as opposed to, say, livestock? Try to get
word-of-mouth recommendations.
Asking other pet owners isn't always effective because they
may not have had any unusual or challenging health problems with their pets, and
vets that can be okay for routine stuff often are less impressive with unusal
stuff.
Call vets in your area and ask the vet techs, not the vets
themselves, who they would recommend other than their own current employer.
Another good source is groomers, as they tend to hear a lot of stories from
their clients.
If you find the recommended vet is very expensive, he
probably owns the practice. Try one of the associates. They tend not to run up
the bills so much, and a good vet will usually hire good associates as well.
Look for a vet who is willing to refer you elsewhere if
they don't know the answers rather then saying something like "It must be an
allergy", etc.
Check to see if the vet is licensed by the AVMA (American
Veterinary Medical Association). They do extensive and picky inspections of the
facilities.
24 hour emergency care
A good vet will either be associated with a 24 emergency
care plan or be able to give you the number of a good place in your area. Keep
this number on your refrigerator and check with your vet when you visit that
it's still up-to-date.
Fecal samples
Any time you bring your dog to the vet, try to bring a
fresh fecal sample. Put a small, fingernail-sized sample into a plastic bag, or
ask your vet for a supply of fecal samplers. The vet cannot always get a fecal
sample from the dog, and this saves you extra trips to return the sample and
then bring the dog in if the tests are positive.
Try an ordinary sandwich bag (e.g. a "Baggie" -- ziplock is
convenient but not necessary) and turn it inside out over your hand like a
rubber glove. Then simply pick up the stool with your covered hand, turn the bag
right-side out, enclosing the sample. Zip if ziplock otherwise use a twist tie.
This is perfectly sanitary (and you can use the same procedure to clean up after
your dog on walks).
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Recommended Reading: Creating A
Peaceable Kingdom: How to live with more than one pet
by Cynthia D. Miller. Animalia Publishing Co., 1997.
When you get your new dog, you might already have pets that
you will need to introduce the new dog to. Exactly what you will need to do
depends on the kinds and temperaments of the animals involved.
Introducing a puppy to an older dog is probably the easiest
combination. If the older dog is properly socialized with other dogs, you will
not have problems. If the older dog is not, you may have to keep the dogs
separated until you're more confident about their getting along. (In any case, a
puppy will often be restrained as per housetraining efforts when you are not at
home.)
If you are introducing a puppy to a cat, you will probably
have some trouble for a few months. Older cats, unless they've dealt well with
dogs before will probably hiss and spit at the puppy or avoid it for a long
time. As long as the cat has a place to retreat to and you teach the puppy to
leave the cat alone (granted, easier said than done), you will work through
problems eventually.
Puppies and kittens tend to get along just fine. Watch out
for possible accidental injuries if the puppy is (or will become) much bigger
than the cats.
If you are introducing an adult dog to an adult dog, it
will depend on their temperament and how well they get along with other dogs.
You might have some scuffles to establish a hierarchy -- keep an eye on it but
don't forbid it unless things get out of hand. If one dog reacts very poorly to
the other, you will have to separate them for a while and work on introducing
them slowly. You may have to keep them separate when you are gone.
An adult dog with a cat can present problems if the dog
thinks cats make tasty snacks, or if the cat takes a dim view of dogs. You may
have to keep them separated, or expect a longer period of adjustment. If the dog
is fine with cats, introducing it to a kitten is easy.
In sum, it depends on the temperament and ages of the
animals involved. In most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work it
out, and after a week to a month or so, things are fine. However, sometimes this
is a lengthy process that you will have to work through, especially if it is
cross-species. In general, this will work:
Put the dog in its own room, where the
original pet can smell it, but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove
the dog from the room and let the original pet smell and explore the room
thoroughly. Put the dog back in. Depending on the reactions involved, let the
pets meet under supervision. If there is some hostility, separate them while
you are gone until you are certain that they get along. It is best if you can
arrange a "retreat" for each animal.
Meeting first in a neutral area such as someone else's
house or in a park, if possible, may help.
Arrange a retreat for a cat by blocking off entrance to a
room with a child's gate that the cat can jump over but the dog cannot.
Be sure that the original pet gets plenty of attention
after the arrival of the new pet. Resentment at loss of attention and change in
routine can exacerbate the problems with the two getting along.
Finally, remember that it can take several weeks to a year
for the animals to adjust. Don't rush things. Your best resource is patience.
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Dogs are wonderful companions. Their outgoing nature may
bring them into contact with other animals - increasing their exposure to
disease. Fortunately for your pet, vaccinations are available to prevent many
dog diseases. Vaccinating your dog is the best and least costly way to prevent
disease. Prevention assures the best quality of
life for your pet and it costs less than treatment.
Vaccines protect pets against common viruses and bacteria.
At some time in their lives, almost all dogs will be exposed to a serious or
even fatal infectious disease. Without proper vaccination, they could be
unprotected. Veterinarians recommend the use of vaccines in the prevention of
rabies, distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, viral diarrhea, and respiratory
disease, all of which are primary diseases that can endanger your dog's health.
Some factors the veterinarian will consider before
beginning a vaccination program are age, overall health, the need for diagnostic
tests and risk of exposure.
Vaccines help protect your dog from infectious diseases,
but other aspects of your pet's health are equally important, especially
nutrition and parasite control. Your veterinarian is your partner in insuring
the best preventive care for your canine companion and friend. See your
veterinarian on a routine basis to keep your dog's vaccinations up-to-date, and
follow his or her advice. Your veterinarian can also keep you informed about new
developments for providing a long, healthy life for your pet.
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Dog Skin Care:
Skin Care
for the Healthy Dog
Brushing
Most dogs enjoy a good brushing whether or not they have a
short or a long hair coat. Daily brushing is especially important for long
coated dogs, with a few breed exceptions, to prevent tangling and subsequent
matting of the fur.
Bathing
Frequency of bathing of dogs with healthy skin depends on
where they live (indoors or outdoors), climate humid or dry), hair coat type,
etc. In our Florida climate most indoor pets require bathing for hygienic
reasons (odor control etc.) at least monthly. The best choice of shampoo is a
mild, non-drying hypoallergenic product designed for dogs. Many human shampoos
and dishwashing liquids are too drying and harsh for a dog's thinner epidermis.
Too frequent bathing as a cause of skin problems is very rare in our humid
climate. By the same token, a dog with normal skin and hair coat should not
require bathing for odor control not due to fecal or urine soiling more than
once a week.
If you are bathing once weekly and odor persists or returns
within 2 or 3 days, it may be an indication of skin or ear infection. Flea
killing shampoos are only really useful for flea infested pets. There is no
residual insecticidal activity after rinsing. If you are using Advantage on your
pet it is okay to bathe the dog more than once monthly as long as you are using
only mild shampoos. Medicated shampoo will strip the coat of its oils and the
Advantage. It is not recommended to bathe your pet between applications of
Frontline. For either Frontline or Advantage, it is best to keep between
application baths to a minimum in order to maximize efficacy.
Nutrition
For optimum health of skin and hair coat the high quality,
premium pet foods generally provide the best results. Name brand pet foods sold
at the grocery store are usually well-balanced and provide adequate nutrition
but can be improved upon for skin health by using fatty acid supplements.
Contrary to public perception and aggressive marketing techniques, there is
nothing special about lamb and rice foods for skin health. Before lamb and rice
foods were introduced to pet store and grocery shelves, they provided a useful
tool for diagnosing food-related dermatologic disease. Since their introduction,
veterinarians have had to become more creative in the design of elimination
diets for diagnostic purposes.
Help! My Dog Has
Skin Problems!!
In Florida, we see MANY dogs for
skin and hair coat problems. These problems range from recurrent odor to itching
to hair loss. Some dogs exhibit all 3 of these signs and more.
Improved non-insecticidal products and, also, improved insecticides have
revolutionized the management of flea allergic dogs. Despite this, there
continue to be a significant number of dogs with persistent or recurrent
dermatological problems, problems which may require long-term or life-long
management.
The most important thing to do is to first consult with
your veterinarian. If; over a reasonable time frame, your veterinarian is unable
to sort out the problem, he/she may refer you to a specialist in veterinary
dermatology to evaluate a stubborn or difficult-to-diagnose condition.
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